El Condor Pasa

Actually, after a long flight from Europe and a short night in Lima before flying to Arequipa, I should have gone for an early sleep, after my Pisco Sour and dinner (see yesterday’s post).

However, I discovered that I probably would miss something if I did not visit the Colca Canyon and the Cruz del Condor. I managed to fix a trip there but I had to join a group which had already left during the day and were sleeping at a place called Chivay. I had to take a normal local bus which left at 1:30 in the morning and after some four hours in an over crowded bus on bumpy roads I reached the place, got breakfast and joined a small group in a small bus on small and – again – bumpy gravel roads.

I had a short moment before the small bus left and took some photos in the Chivay village of the first ladies wakening up and walking to the market.

I had planned to reach the higher altitudes by steps, starting by Arequipa on 2400 meters (7800 ft), but I learnt that during the night, my second night in Peru, I had already passed a peak at almost 5000 m (16400 ft) and the whole day we were cruising on some 3600 m (11800 ft) to 4200 m (13800 ft). No specific problem, except that you have to walk (climb) slowly. Of course, some coca leaves, which are available everywhere, help.

The Colca Canyon is supposed to be the deepest in the world, about twice as deep as the Grand Canyon. The difference is that the slopes are not that straight and that the canyon is partly habitable. You find pre-Colombian terraces all over the place, still cultivated, small villages…

The highest point we reached is called Cruz del Condor and this is the place where you have a reasonable chance to see condors. I was lucky to see at least one! Here the Colca river is “only” some 1200 m (4000 ft) below, but it’s quite steep and there are no railings or any kind of security, so watch your steps!

Later, on the way back to Arequipa, this time in daylight, I could see what I had missed the preceding night, including the National Reservation of Salinas and Aguada Blanca. It’s a flat land on about 4000 m (13100 ft) with preserved flora and fauna, full of wild llamas, alpacas and vicuñas (the finest textile fibre in the world). There should also be flamingos, but I did not see any. Once back in Arequipa, I had a Pisco Sour, a nice dinner and a very good sleep!

To see these photos in a larger size, I would propose that you visit my photo blog!

I will make a weekend break; back on Monday with a new chapter (Cusco)!

I'm back !

I’m back! Very happy with my trip! Sincere thanks to all of you for the comments that you have left during my absence!

I will now start posting some (too many?) photos from Peru and Bolivia, but will do it in pieces, place by place, probably during a week or so… before resuming my normal Paris reports.

AREQUIPA

After a quick one night transfer via Lima (which I visited at the end of my trip), my first goal was Arequipa.

Arequipa is Peru’s second most important city with a population of about 1 million. It’s located in the “shadow” of the nowadays sleeping volcano El Mitsi. It was recommended to start the trip here, the altitude being a mere 2400 meters (7800 feet).

The city centre is on the UNESCO world heritage list since 2000 and has a very typical and homogenous Spanish colonial style, mostly dating from the century which followed the present city creation in 1540. Many of the buildings are built of “sillar”, a pearly white volcanic rock – the city goes under the name La Ciudad Blanca (The White City).

The photos include views of the central place (Plaza de Armas), the Cathedral, the church La Compania with its adjacent monastery and the Convento de Santa Catalina (the red and blue buildings). In the evening I had a “Pisco Sour”, the ever served local cocktail (Pisco brandy, lemon juice, egg whites, syrup, regional bitters…), on the balcony of my hotel. A tourist bus passed by. We waved.If you wish to see the original photos in large, I propose that you visit my other blog, "Peter - photos".