Grands Boulevards (1)

Before starting a walk along the boulevards, I would like to show you this additional map from 1725 on which I have indicated some then already existing sites as well as some later ones. Today we will just make it from Place de la Bastille to Place de la République. We start thus with Boulevard Beaumarchais, originally called St. Antoine, which later got the name from Beaumarchais - inventor, musician, spy, arms dealer, revolutionary - most known as the author of “The Barber of Seville” and “The Marriage of Figaro” (“Le Nozze di Figaro”), successful plays which served as base for the Rossini and Mozart operas. He had his residence (now destroyed) on the corner of Place de la Bastille.

A bit further up on the boulevard (no.23), you can see the entrance gate to a mansion house built by and for Jules Hardouin Mansart, chief arechitect of Louis XIV, who designed the largest part of Versailles and several other castles, churches (Invalides) and places (Place Vendôme). One of the most famous French courtesans, “Ninon” (de l’Enclos) held her salon here. In France her name goes for “wit and beauty”. She had some prominent lovers and collected a fortune, but she was also a friend of Molière and left part of her heritage to Voltaire’s parents for his education.

When proceeding towards La Place de la République, the boulevard changes name to “Bd des Filles du Calvaire” - named after a convent which since has disappeared - and to “Bd du Temple” - named after the “Temple”, a fortress which used to be situated close to here, especially well-known for having been a prison for the Royal family during the Revolution.

In the junction between these two boulevards you can find the “Cirque d’Hiver” (“The Winter Circus”) built in 1852, with J.I. Hittorff as architect. (He also, among many other things, designed the fountains on Place de la Concorde and the buildings around Place de l’Etoile.) The place is still in use for a lot of events, still basically circus, and can seat some 2000 people. Toulouse-Lautrec made several paintings here.

All along these three boulevards you will find a large number of shops specialised in photo equipment for professionals as well as for amateurs. Boulevard du Temple has another specific link to photography. This is where for the first time in history a person was photographed. The photo was taken by Louis Daguerre in 1838. As the exposure time was about ten minutes, only two persons involved in shoe shining and remaining fairly immobile (lower left corner) can be seen. There are also some shops specialised in music instruments, motor bikes (Harley Davidson)… … and a number of other interesting shops, cafés and restaurants.Boulevard du Temple used also to be called the Crime Boulevard, not really due to the number of crimes here, but to the type of theatre plays that were performed in a number of theatres situated in the northern part of this street. They are now all gone with the exception of a relatively small one, from which you can here see the modest entrance, Théâtre de Déjazet (from 1859). A lot of French stars have performed here and for the cinema lovers it may be interesting to know that “Les Enfants du Paradis” (“Children of Paradise”), by Marcel Carné and Jacques Prévert, a French “classic”, to a large part was filmed here. When we later will proceed along the boulevards, we will find a lot of theatres, most of them private and with a fairly popular repertoire, what very appropriately is called the “Boulevard Theatre”.

You can find some of these pictures on my photo blog.

Les Invalides

Walking over the Pont Alexandre III (yesterday’s post), I continued my “tourist tour” of Paris, and decided to visit Les Invalides, just in front of the bridge (or just behind, depending on your direction). I imagine that if you have been to Paris, you have been there, but I must admit that, even after 33 years in Paris, I never went into the building, so it was about time!

The Invalides were built under Louis XIV as a home for aged and unwell soldiers – space for 4000 of them. The full name is of course l’Hôpital des Invalides (no translation needed). The hospital was finished in 1676, immediately completed by a chapel, known as Eglise Saint-Louis des Invalides. The Royal Chapel and the dome were added in 1708 (Louis XIV was still there; he reigned from 1643 to 1715, some 72 years, of course in the beginning helped by Mazarin, his mother, Anne of Austria, and some others.) Several architects were involved, but a major role for the church and the dome was played by Jules Hardouin-Mansart , who also left other traces in history (Versailles, Place Vendôme etc…). He was the nephew of François Mansart, another famous architect.

Under the dome, you will since 1861 find the tomb of Napoleon (designed by Visconti, made of Finnish wood). Napoleon was brought here from Saint Helena already in 1840, but it took some time to prepare his final place of rest. There are also some souvenirs of Napoleon to be seen and some of his family members and other prominent personalities are also buried here.

At the Invalides, you can also find an army museum. In my patchwork you can find a canon and also see how François I (1494-1547) was dressed when he was making wars.

You can find the originals of the photos in the above patchwork on my other blog (Peter - photos).